The gray island

Posted on

These photos were taken during a 2022 trip to Pico Island in the Azores, an autonomous Portuguese archipelago of volcanic islands in the middle of the Atlantic Ocean. It is called “the gray island” because of its volcanic landscape and the lava stone walls used in its vineyards.

Pico Island—or Ihla do Pico as the Portuguese say—is the second-largest island in the Azores, and at around 14,000 people, it is the least dense. There are no stoplights. Its airport only has two gates and feels more like a parking lot than anything. The pace, if there is one, would make any DMV blush. Generally, not much is happening. And that’s the draw. That’s why people go. It is about as away as one could get.

Then there is, of course, the beauty of the place. Pico is new, geologically speaking, rising out of the sea only about 300,000 years ago. It’s most striking feature is the stratovolcano, Mount Pico, for which the island is named (translating literally to peak). The rest of the island is marked by steep cliffs, small towns, and stunning sea views, particularly in the northeast where you can see the neighboring island of São Miguel.

Mount Pico shrouded in dramatic clouds above a rocky lava field dotted with green vegetation under an overcast sky
Silhouetted bare tree overlooking a lake at sunset, with dramatic clouds and golden light breaking through above rolling hills and Pico volcano
Stone walls and grape vines within them, with a cloud-wrapped volcanic peak rising in the distance under gray skies

Mount Pico is a dormant volcano standing at nearly 8,000 feet. At its base are old vineyards, grown within walls made of volcanic rocks.

The accommodations

I don’t think I’ll ever get over our stay at Lava Homes. It might be the most perfect hotel I have ever stayed in. First off, the rooms aren’t rooms. They are fully-equipped homes, meticulously-designed, sustainable, and using locally-sourced materials. The real pièce de résistance, if you will, is the infinity pool overlooking the ocean and island of São Jorge from a cliff. Above are the highlands, where you might witness completely different weather than from where you are standing.

Infinity pool reflecting cloudy skies overlooks a coastal bay, with stone villa and lush gardens set against green mountain slopes
Modern stone and wood houses with terracotta roofs nestled against green mountain slopes, featuring a turquoise swimming pool and landscaping under cloudy skies
Modern house with steel balcony and infinity pool overlooking the Atlantic Ocean, with distant island of São Jorge under a partly cloudy sky
Pink tropical flowers in sharp focus bloom in a garden, with blurred ocean view and blue sky visible in the background
Selfie of me emerging from churning turquoise water with eyes closed, surrounded by white foam and splashing waves
Black and white dairy cow grazing on clifftop pasture overlooking the blue Atlantic Ocean on Pico Island, Azores, with neighboring islands visible in the distance and volcanic rocks in the foreground
Coastal view in the Azores showing traditional stone buildings with volcanic rock walls flanking a concrete pathway that leads toward the Atlantic Ocean. A weeping willow tree grows between the structures, with lush green vegetation surrounding the buildings. The deep blue ocean stretches to distant mountainous islands partially obscured by white clouds under a bright blue sky.

Just an amazing place

Both our living room and bedroom overlooked the ocean, all connected by a wraparound balcony. Nothing but peace and quiet, save for the cows and occasional car driving down the main road. At night, however, that changes when the Corey’s shearwaters start making their unsettling calls.

Modern living space with exposed wooden ceiling beams, concrete floors, and floor-to-ceiling windows opening to a terrace with mountain and ocean views
The interior of our room, Casa da Eira

A UNESCO-designated vine region

As a budding oenophile, what I wanted to do more than anything was explore Pico’s unique wines and production methods. I was fortunate enough to find a bottle in one of my local wine shops just before our trip, brought in by the owner who took a case home, but very hard to find otherwise. I loved it and wanted more!

Wine production in Pico is still well below what it was during its height, after powdery mildew decimated a majority of the island’s vineyards. But efforts are underway to restore the industry. What makes wine production on Pico so unique are the currais where the vines are planted. The currais—or boxes—are made of volcanic rocks, all stacked by hand without any mortar. These boxes protect the vines from salt air and provide additional heat in a temperate climate. Walking around these old vineyards is like walking around on another planet. And to imagine, these were all stacked by hand.

Traditional Azorean stone house with volcanic rock walls and terracotta tile roof, featuring a weathered wooden gate and door in rustic orange-red tones against an overcast sky on Pico Island.
Red dirt path flanked by traditional volcanic stone walls leading toward the ocean, with Faial Island visible across the channel under cloudy skies.
Dirt path winding through dramatic volcanic rock formations with Pico Mountain's slopes visible in the distance under moody overcast skies.
Narrow stone-stepped pathway cutting through towering volcanic rock walls, with lush ferns and tropical vegetation growing from the crevices.
Close-up detail of weathered volcanic rock with lichen growth, showing the textured surface of traditional stone walls with a blurred figure walking in the background.

The currais of Pico

One of the newer wineries on the Island is the Azores Wine Company. What’s interesting is that its name is in English, indicating they might have aspirations to reach a wider market than Pico wine currently serves. The winery also features a hotels and a high-end restaurant.

Modern concrete winery building of Azores Wine Company set among volcanic rock formations and traditional stone-walled vineyard plots under dramatic cloudy skies
Grapevines growing between volcanic stone walls in the unique terroir of Azores Wine Company, with clusters of dark grapes visible among the autumn-colored leaves
Glass of white wine from Azores Wine Company positioned on wooden table with volcanic vineyard landscape and ocean horizon in the background
Wooden wine barrels stacked in rows at Azores Wine Company cellar, each branded with the company logo and numbered, with aging documentation labels attached to track the wine maturation process.
Modern concrete architecture with geometric lines at Azores Wine Company, featuring native palm-like plants

Images from around the Azores Wine Company

Madalena

Madalena is Pico’s main population center. Here you will find plenty of shops and restaurants, as well as the ferry port that connects to Faial.

Swimmers and sunbathers at Madalena's natural lava rock pools on Pico Island, Azores, with the town's red and white striped lighthouse on the harbor breakwater and green mountains across the water
Woman in a floral dress walking past traditional white-washed buildings with dark green trim on a cobblestone street with string lights overhead and weathered storefronts
Yellow vintage Volkswagen van with Portuguese license plate parked overlooking the Atlantic Ocean on Pico Island, Azores, with volcanic rock coastline and green mountains under dramatic cloudy skies

Scenes from Madalena

While in Madalena, it would be criminal to miss watching the sunset at Cella Bar. The restaurant itself is an amazing architectural gem, but the food and drinks are also a must. Don’t skip out on a locally made fig aguardente, but maybe not too many if you’re driving. Driving in Pico isn’t for the faint of heart in any circumstance.

Curved wooden architecture of Cella Bar with a person relaxing on the rooftop terrace during golden hour sunset, overlooking the Atlantic Ocean with warm pink and orange skies
Two people standing on a concrete pier at Cella Bar, surrounded by dramatic volcanic rocks and tide pools reflecting golden sunset light, with mountains silhouetted across the ocean
Guests enjoying drinks on the curved wooden deck at Cella Bar with ocean views of the volcanic coastline and traditional Portuguese village buildings in the background during evening hours
Dramatic golden sunset sky over the Atlantic Ocean viewed from Cella Bar with neighboring islands silhouetted on the horizon and volcanic rocks in the foreground reflecting the warm light

Cella’s wooden construction, smooth curves, and circular windows stand in contrast with the local architecture, in a good way. The roofdeck is the perfect place to enjoy drinks as the sun sets behind Faial

Whale watching in Lajes

Lajes do Pico is a small port town on the south side of the island. Sadly, I don’t have any pictures of the whales because I didn’t want to splash my camera—we did get soaked out there, and there were whales aplenty.

Marina in the Azores with white sailboats and yachts moored at wooden docks, their tall masts creating a forest of rigging against an overcast sky. People can be seen on several boats preparing for departure or maintenance. Green volcanic hills rise in the background with scattered white buildings of a coastal town nestled among the slopes. The calm harbor water reflects the boats and cloudy sky.
Traditional Azorean fishing boat named 'MEDINA LAJES DO PICO' with a white hull and bright red trim, moored with green rope against dark volcanic rocks. The boat features a blue interior deck area with a black ship's wheel, coiled ropes, and classic fishing boat hardware. The contrast between the colorful vessel and the black lava rock shoreline is striking.
Three elderly men socializing on a cobblestone street in the Azores outside a traditional white house with mint green window shutters and trim. One man sits on a red mobility scooter while the other two stand chatting. The two-story home features a decorative iron street lamp and is adorned with vibrant red bougainvillea cascading over a white garden wall. Wooden planters and lush greenery complete the charming Portuguese island streetscape.
Orange tabby cat lying on traditional Portuguese cobblestone pavement in front of a white house with mint green trim in the Azores. The cat rests near the building's entrance, which features a white door, small window, and terracotta tile threshold. A black doormat sits beside the entrance on the characteristic basalt stone street typical of Azorean villages.

Lages do Pico, by sea and by land

On the way out, we drove northward through the highlands. When not engulfed in clouds, the views are spectacular. But the clouds are also beautiful in their own way.

Rural road in the Azores lined with masses of blooming blue and white hydrangeas stretching along the roadside. The asphalt road with white center lines curves through the lush countryside toward rolling green hills and volcanic peaks shrouded in dramatic low-hanging clouds. Dense forests of dark conifers cover the middle slopes while pastoral fields spread across the valleys. The moody sky creates a quintessential Azorean atmosphere with its mix of clouds and mist enveloping the mountainous terrain.
Misty crater lake in the Azores shrouded in thick fog, with rolling green hills partially visible through the clouds. Traditional stone walls with wooden fence posts divide pastoral fields in the foreground, where a few white birds can be seen on the ground. The volcanic lake's still waters reflect the overcast sky, creating an ethereal atmosphere typical of the Azores' high-altitude caldera landscapes. The scene captures the islands' characteristic blend of dramatic geology and rural farming traditions.

Though there are no ocean views, the highlands are some of the most scenic roads in Pico

Elsewhere around the island

While I said there isn’t much to do on Pico, that isn’t entirely true. Forgive me. There’s plenty, if that’s your thing. Or you can lay back and do nothing, if that’s your thing. We tried to find a happy medium, and I think we did that, because that’s our thing, and it was exactly what we needed.

We planned our trip a few years in advance with friends from Lisbon, and their family in Brazil. Then the pandemic happened, which further delayed our plans. Our trip to Pico was our first international trip since 2019, a painful stretch when you enjoy collecting passport stamps.

Elevated wooden deck restaurant terrace in the Azores built above white-painted volcanic rock formations. Green and white umbrellas shade wooden tables and chairs where diners are seated. A wooden staircase descends along the cliff face, and black stencil street art of a skateboarding figure decorates the white-washed rock wall. The unique dining setup utilizes the natural volcanic coastline architecture typical of Azorean seaside establishments.
Weathered white building labeled 'CENTRO PAROQUIAL' (Parish Center) in an Azorean village, nestled against lush green volcanic hills. The single-story structure features wooden shuttered windows, a central glass door, and shows signs of age with stained walls. Traditional Portuguese tile roofing and adjacent white buildings complete the rural community setting under a partly cloudy sky. The parish center sits on a concrete plaza, serving as a focal point for local community gatherings.

One of the small towns along the main road on the north side of the island

On the final day, we went to a tiny restaurant called Petipé, a shack, really. It’s the type of place where what’s on the menu is what was caught earlier that day. The food was outstanding, yes. But between the company and the picturesque/remote setting, it was the type of send-off you might expect to see in a movie.

With every trip, I carry something with me, for good, as if it were a little tattoo. But this one, especially so.

Couple sitting at red outdoor table on boat deck in the Azores. Man wears brown flat cap, glasses, red hoodie, and watch, with hands clasped on table. Woman wears glasses and geometric patterned top, touching her face while smiling. Green hills and coastline visible across calm water in background under overcast sky.
Black and white photo of three people dining at rustic restaurant table in the Azores. Woman on left gestures while speaking, woman in center wears white sweater, bearded man on right wears knit cap. Table set with wine glasses, water glasses, and napkins. Stone walls decorated with chalkboard menu, framed photos, and hanging items create cozy restaurant atmosphere.
Night scene in Azores village showing brightly lit red restaurant or shop with large windows glowing warmly against dark sky. White residential houses visible in background, with parked cars and small groups of people gathered outside the illuminated building. Street lights create pools of light in the darkness, palm tree silhouette visible on right side.