Lisbon to Lagos
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In 2024 we traveled to Portugal, rented a car and drove from Lisbon to Lagos, stopping in small towns along the coast.
I have a real connection to Portugal, and specifically, to the city of Lisbon. It is where my father’s father was born, and before him, the rest of that side my family tree. I never met him. He passed away, after moving back to Lisbon, well before I was born. All that I have from him is my dad and my aggressively Portuguese last name. I know this sounds like a dark way to start a post to show off some vacation photos, but please don’t feel bad. I’m told that he was kind of shit.
My grandmother, who I always called Avó (Portuguese for grandma), was born near Provincetown, Massachusetts, but moved to Portugal when she was still a baby. Her entire family tree is also from Portugal. She, my aunt, and one of dad’s cousins were the only people on my dad’s side of the family that I ever got to know. I don’t have the backstory as to why that is, but I’ll leave it at this: families are complicated, some more than others.
And so, Portugal was never a significant part of my identity with my upbringing, unlike how Italy was with my mom’s side of the family. What I did know was through my avó’s cooking—at least what I, as a child, was willing to eat, a decadently rich flan or my personal favorite, filhoses (something between a donut and a fritter). Now that I’m older, middle-aged, I can feel that pull to build a closer connection with where my family came from, to walk those same streets, to see those same sights.
That wasn’t the purpose of this trip, but it’s something that’s on my mind that registers very differently from when I visit a city like Prague. While I’m not really connected to my extended family who still lives abroad, we do have some very good friends in Lisbon who graciously let us stay with them in their beautiful home in the Graça neighborhood.
Our friends’ apartment, in the living room looking out to the balcony and southern views
Graça is slightly removed from the more tourist-packed neighborhoods in Lisbon, such as Alfama, Chiado, or Bairro Alto. It has a laid back feel that I can appreciate, and plenty of chill bars and restaurants. It also has some stunning vistas, and small hilltop parks with overlooks.
Around the Graça neighborhood
This leg of our trip was a short one. After a night’s sleep, we picked up our rental car and made our way down to Sines, which would be our home base. Our plan was to drive along the Alentejo coast, with hopes of making it to the Algarve, and visiting as many small towns as we can.
Hitting the road
Driving in a foreign country isn’t all that different from driving at home. Sure, the signs are different, speed limits are in kilometers, and gas prices are in liters. There might have been a point where I built up in my head that I would be so utterly confused by all that that disaster would be given, but in practice, it’s pretty easy. The one aspect I do find a bit intimidating though is those windy and narrow streets with sharp turns in those old, hilly towns. Especially when GPS isn’t as reliable. On the plus side, unlike back home, making a mistake that costs someone ten seconds of their day won’t get you shot.
Sines
Our hotel in Sines
Sines was located at the north end of our journey, about 2 hours south of Lisbon. It has a beach and a historic center, but the assortment of refineries, ports, and an enormous power plant tends to overshadow whatever charm it may have once had. I don’t think I’d recommend visiting, but our hotel was nice and comfortable. If I had to do this trip again, I’d stay another 20 minutes south in Porto Covo.
Porto Covo
The cliffs of Porto Covo with public beaches below
Porto Covo is a popular vacation spot. We actually made two stops here, and I’m glad one of them was during the day’s golden hour. After arriving in Sines, we decided to grab some dinner somewhere less industrial and with fewer active construction projects. Once we drove past the power plant, the drive was quite nice. We had a nice dinner of fresh seafood in what appeared to be part of a camper park. I wish we had some time to hang out at the beach, because it looked perfect in that sunset.
The town of Porto Covo
When we set out on our road trip, we stopped again in Port Covo, this time to see the town. This was in the middle of the week, so a lot of places were expectedly closed, but some shops were open and there were some nice trails along the cliffs.
Vila Nova de Milfontes
The next town we stopped in was Vila Nova de Milfontes, and like most of the places we stopped in the Alentejo, it featured whitewashed buildings and homes and picturesque seaside cliffs. What makes this town different is that it sits along the Mira River, where it opens to the sea.
Zambujeira do Mar
Before we left Lisbon, one of our friends had told us that the coast is beautiful, but everywhere you go is exactly the same. You have pretty little churches, white buildings, and jagged cliffs. I guess there’s some truth to that, but maybe that is only the case when you’re never in these towns for more than an hour or so.
We stopped for a light lunch—more of an appetizer—in Zambujeira do Mar in a restaurant about a block from the cliffs, but still offered sea views. This is where I had my first taste of percebes, or goose barnacles. These are considered a delicacy and can fetch over $100 per pound, but here, in this part of Portugal, they are common and reasonably priced. They’re also not fancy. In fact, they look just like a dinosaur foot. Cooking them is simple, just boil them in ocean water (or salt water if that’s more convenient) and wash back with cold beer. Honestly, I can eat these damn things all day long.
Azenhas do Mar
We had originally planned to grab lunch in Azenhas do Mar at a restaurant that our friend highly recommended to us, but it seemed that a lot of other people had the same idea. The restaurant had a long wait time, so we decided to continue our journey south.
Aljezur
The next town we visited, and now in the Algarve, was Aljezur. It’s a hillside town, and not along the coast. There is a river, and more interestingly, there is a castle atop the hill with a history that dates back to 7th century. It’s a short hike to the top, made a little more difficult by the intense sun and our own need to move along. The castle itself has a couple descriptive signs, but other than that, not much else outside the views. Much of it was destroyed in the 1755 earthquake. After taking some photos, we walked back into the town, fueled up on coffee, and continued onward.
Sagres
Sagres isn’t just a mighty fine Portuguese beer. It is an actual place, once known as "the end of the world," as it happens to be the southwesternmost point of mainland Europe. Jutting out at the very edge is a massive fort that is said to be where Portugal began the Age of Discovery, making it world power of its time. Unfortunately, we missed gaining entry to the fort by about 5 minutes, dooming us to wander the beautiful cliffs just outside its walls.
It was starting to get late, and we figured we’d have enough time to hit up one last destination before returning back to Sines. So we hopped back in the car and made it to Lagos.
Lagos
Lagos is a medium-sized city along Portugal’s southern coast. Of all the places we stopped, it was the only one that could be classified as a city. It’s history is quite dark. Lagos was the center of Europe’s slave trade and, in fact, is where you can find the first slave market in colonial Europe. The building is still standing.
Today, Lagos is a popular tourist destination with amazing beaches and a number of high-end restaurants, and we saw none of that. Evening was starting to roll around, and we were lucky enough to score a table at a decent restaurant in the historic center.
It would have been nice to stay here if we had another day, and maybe we’ll visit again on some future trip. One of my cousins lives here and has a house on the outskirts.
Alentejo wine
Herdade Canal Caveira, featuring Snoopy
The next day, it was time to head back to Lisbon. On the way, we stopped at a winery in the Alentejo, because why not? In Lisbon, we tried several wines from this region and I enjoyed many of the them. Most of the Portuguese wine we get back home is either port, reds from the Douro, or the semi-effervescent vinho verde. It’s a treat to be able to have things that I just can’t get back home.
Back to Lisbon
Another hill in Graça
With our road trip out of the way, we returned to Lisbon to spend the rest of our trip and see our friends. The main reason we went to Portugal was because my wife was attending attending a conference. Our friends had to work during the day, so that left me on my own without an agenda. As a photography hobbyist, I’d say that’s ideal.
During this free time, I grabbed my camera and walked around using only my orientation to the Tegus River as a guide. No destination, no plan, just a need to take a bunch photos and burn off all the bolinhos de bacalhau and porco preto that I’ve been eating. And probably probably some percentage of the wine and cheese.
Stairways in the Fernando Pessoa museum
Between the architecture, the azulejos, the hills, the streetcars, and the fact that Lisbon gets more sunny days than any other capital, taking bad photos might be more of a skill than taking decent ones.
More scenes in the Graça neighborhood
In 2011, when I first visited Lisbon, it wasn’t nearly the tourist hotspot that it is now. Some streets are so packed with people, it’s impossible to squeeze through without feeling as if you’re in some kind of line. And the golf carts, everywhere the golf cats… those weren’t there before.
More scenes in the Graça neighborhood
I get why people want to visit. Lisbon is truly one of the most beautiful cities in the world. Every angle gives the eye something offer. And when compared to other European tourist destinations like Paris or London, it is a much more affordable option. That might be becoming less so nowadays. According our friends, it is pretty wild how much the cost of living there has outpaced local salaries.
The often immature things that people write
The best way to see Lisbon is on foot, in my opinion. Guide books will say that Tram 28 is worth it, and I’ll just have to take their word for it. For me, it’s walking, turning an interesting corner to climb a staircase that seems to several blocks, and stopping for a quick snack. You have these grand vistas, but if you take a moment, there are little details everywhere you look.