A quick trip to Brazil

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A week in Brazil is’t much time. Visiting multiple cities limits that time further. In 2024, I flew down for about a week, visiting three cities.

Brazil has always had it’s own little place in mind. My last name, if you didn’t know, is Portuguese AF. My dad is from São Miguel, on the outskirts of São Paulo. I didn’t know much about his life in Brazil other than that his home had a dirt floor and played a lot of soccer. His family wasn’t Brazilian either, they were Portuguese. He would speak Portuguese—more european style, european accents—with his mother, my avó (pronounced ahv-aww), but never taught me as I was growing up. That’s not entirely true. He did offer, but it was only around when I was seven and preferred to be out with friends catching crawdads or doing dangerous bike shit without helmets or whatever we did at that age. I really wish I learned.

I’ve been to Brazil five or six times now, visiting people, seeing different parts of the country and eating all the wonderful foods. I love it. It’s a part of me that I was never fully introduced to, but because the universe is funny like that, I ended up marrying a Brazilian. It’s like if you took Final Destination and re-imagined it as romantic comedy. I should confess that I haven’t actually seen any of the Final Destination movies, but that’s just what I have in my head. I do hope everyone lived happily ever after.

Anyway, where was I? Back to the trip! So before the start of the pandemic, I would visit Brazil fairly regularly. But this would be my first time in nearly five years. Usually I’d stay for about 10 days, but this trip would be a short one with multiple destinations: Fortaleza, Rio de Janeiro, and Paraty (pronounced para-tchee).

Fortaleza

Fortaleza is a city of about 2.5 million people in the northeast of the country. It’s where my in-laws live, so it’s rare that we’d ever go anywhere in Brazil without going there, and this trip was no exception. An added bonus is that Fortaleza is close to some truly wonderful beaches, none of which I got to see this time because we only had two days and much to do.

A dense urban landscape of modern high-rise residential and commercial buildings in varying heights and architectural styles, featuring a mix of glass, concrete, and brick facades in neutral tones. Lush green trees are scattered throughout the development, providing natural contrast against the geometric structures under a partly cloudy sky.

Buildings in the Beira Mar neighborhood

One thing that makes a short trip to Fortaleza difficult is that it’s not an easy city to get to, especially from the U.S. On average, total travel time is in the ballpark of 26 hours, give or take. Much of that is due to a lack of direct flights. There’s one from Miami— Fortaleza is one of Brazil’s closest major cities to the U.S.—but it’s once a week and prohibitively expensive. So we fly to São Paulo and then take a three hour flight back up north. This adds 9-10 hours to the trip, if you include layovers. When you arrive, you’ll want a caipirinha, and you’ll have earned it.

A minimalist apartment building stairwell with white concrete steps ascending diagonally across the frame, flanked by warm beige textured walls and white tiled flooring. A red fire extinguisher is mounted on the back wall next to what appears to be utility panels, while a small window with geometric glass blocks provides natural light from the left side.
A pristine tropical beach scene viewed from above, showing brilliant turquoise ocean waters meeting golden sand where beachgoers stroll along the shoreline. Neat rows of blue beach chairs with umbrellas are arranged across the sand, while a small white beach vendor cart sits in the foreground, creating an organized yet relaxed coastal atmosphere.
A dramatic nighttime aerial view of an urban cityscape with illuminated high-rise buildings and apartment complexes stretching across the frame, while curved highway overpasses with glowing streetlights weave through the lower portion of the image. Dark storm clouds dominate the moody sky above, creating a striking contrast with the warm city lights below.

iPhone photos from various buildings around the city

The tall buildings and high density might give the impression that Fortaleza is a walkable city, but it is not. Sure, there are pedestrians, but probably not in numbers you would expect. Driving is the norm, even with short distances. Some of that appeared to be changing. Beira Mar just went through a huge amount of development around the beachfront with lots of cafes, little restaurants, and paths for running and biking. It looked really nice, from our balcony at least.

An aerial view of a bustling beachfront area showing a modern hotel with 'MAREIRO HOTEL' signage, adjacent to a curved transit station where buses are loading passengers. The scene includes organized rows of blue beach chairs, palm trees lining the sandy shore, and a mix of commercial buildings and parking areas that create a typical coastal resort infrastructure.
A nighttime aerial view of an urban intersection with illuminated streets creating light trails from passing vehicles, while apartment buildings with glowing windows rise into the darkness above. A brightly lit commercial building with 'extrafarma' signage anchors the corner, surrounded by palm trees and crosswalks that form geometric patterns under the streetlights.

More images from our balcony in Beira Mar

Rio de Janiero

From Fortaleza, Rio is a three hour flight. If you can get a flight into Santos Dumont, do that. It’s centrally located and the views of the city while landing are a treat. If you get Galeão, which will more likely be the case, you get… Galeão. I mean, as an airport, it’s fine I guess. It works—planes take off and land there, so that’s good. But it’s a sad place, about as exciting as a dryer duct. Plus, you’d be looking at sitting an hour in traffic to get to Zona Sul.

Airport gripes aside, I really do love Rio. Pictures are one thing, but to see the place with your own eyes, that’s something else entirely. It’s difficult to convey the scale of it, the landscape, the mountains, the Tijuca forest, all of which dwarf the massively dense city impossibly situated in the middle of it. Another feature that stands out is just how green everything is.

A towering beige residential apartment building dominates the center of the frame, its multiple floors revealing glimpses of daily life through balconies furnished with chairs, plants, and laundry. The building rises above a dense urban landscape of mixed architectural styles, from modern high-rises to older low-rise structures, all nestled against lush green mountains shrouded in dramatic clouds.
An aerial view looking down at a quiet residential street lined with dense tropical foliage, where two people can be seen walking along a tree-shaded pathway next to a parked white car. Traditional red clay tile rooftops frame the bottom of the image, while lush green canopy creates a natural tunnel over the street below, punctuated by red no-parking signs.

Shot from our hotel in Leblon

Rio has so many cool bars and restaurants, some of the best urban beaches in the world, and sadly I didn’t have much of an opportunity to see much of that because for me, on this trip, I was only in the city for about two full days.

Inside a bustling traditional bar or restaurant, a bearded man in glasses and a baseball cap sits at a wooden counter with a beer, while yellow menu signs with Portuguese text hang overhead advertising various dishes. The scene captures the authentic atmosphere of a local eatery, with customers ordering at the counter and staff working behind displays of bottles and prepared foods.
A crowded traditional Brazilian bar with bright yellow menu signs advertising seafood dishes like 'sardinha,' 'lula,' and 'camarão' hanging above shelves lined with bottles of cachaça and beer. Customers lean against the counter while bartenders in white shirts work behind the bar, creating a lively atmosphere typical of a popular local boteco.

Adega Pérola in Copacabana

Next to Fortaleza, Rio is another city I’ve visited pretty often. It’s the city where my wife is from and where many of her longtime friends still live. Though the trip was short, we still got to meet up.

Delicate pale blue flowers with five narrow petals bloom among bright green leaves, with water droplets glistening on the petals and foliage against a softly blurred background.
A vibrant red flower cluster in sharp focus stands out against a dreamy blur of coral and pink blooms, creating a lush tropical garden scene with rich green foliage.
A striking red-orange flower with long, thin tubular petals radiating outward like fireworks blooms in the foreground, with soft pink building walls visible in the blurred background.
Bright red spiky flowers emerge from lush tropical foliage, with spotted and weathered leaves creating natural texture against a softly blurred garden background.
Fresh raindrops cling to vibrant green leaves, creating a glistening pattern across the lush tropical foliage with dramatic shadows and depth.
A vivid red bromeliad-looking flower with narrow, pointed petals emerges from the center of broad green leaves, surrounded by lush tropical vegetation in soft focus.

Flowers the garden of an art museum

The main reason for the entire trip, however, was to go to Paraty for a couple days for a friend’s birthday celebration.

Paraty

Paraty is in the state of Rio de Janeiro, southwest of the city, but getting there will take about 5 hours by car. It’s a historic Portuguese colonial town that dates back to 1597, serving as export port for sugar and gold on its way to Portugal. Most of the buildings are from the 18th century, white stucco walls, terra cotta roofs, and painted door and window frames.

A cobblestone street lined with white colonial buildings featuring colorful window and door frames in yellow and turquoise stretches into the distance, with a few pedestrians walking along the historic stone-paved road.
A weathered green wooden door with carved stone frame stands centered on a white colonial wall, with moss growing between the cobblestones at its base and age-darkened stains marking the lower portion of the facade.
A cobblestone street curves past white colonial buildings with dark green shutters and trim, while a large tree casts shadows over the historic town square under an overcast sky.
A weathered turquoise door frame meets moss-covered stone walls at the base, with worn stone tiles creating geometric patterns on the ground and showing centuries of age and wear.
A young man in a white t-shirt sits at a small wooden table on a cobblestone street, writing in a notebook outside a restaurant with distinctive white walls and red-framed windows.

Streets and colonial buildings of Paraty

The historic town center is very well preserved. All of the businesses are in those very same 18th century buildings, and our hotel was no different. It was really charming. The owners worked in the film industry, and the entire place is decked out with old film cameras and negatives throughout. One of the Twilight movies was filmed in the area. And yes, of course you can rent the house on Airbnb.

An overhead view captures the textural contrast between weathered cobblestones and lush tropical vegetation, with a vibrant red flower emerging from the dense green foliage. The composition is bisected by a metal drainage grate, creating a striking juxtaposition between the organic curves of leaves and the geometric patterns of the stone street below.
A tropical courtyard scene framed by ornate iron railings showcases colonial architecture with terracotta tile roofs and colorful shutters nestled among lush palm trees and tropical vegetation. The composition captures the layered textures of the scene, from the decorative ironwork in the foreground to the white patio umbrella and dense foliage that create a sense of depth and tropical abundance.
A marmoset monkey sits pensively on a white ledge outside a gallery or shop, its long striped tail dangling gracefully while framed photographs hang on the blue and yellow colonial storefront behind it. The image captures an unexpected moment where wildlife and culture intersect, with the monkey appearing almost like a contemplative gallery visitor against the vibrant architectural backdrop.
A close-up macro shot reveals the intricate details of developed film negatives with visible sprocket holes and green-tinted frames, creating elegant curves as they rest in a metal container. The shallow depth of field emphasizes the tactile quality of the analog film while vintage camera equipment blurs softly in the background, evoking the timeless craft of film photography.
A weathered yellow boat named 'Cairuçu das pedras' in elegant black script serves as a vibrant planter, overflowing with lush green tropical foliage against a warm orange wall. The image captures the charming repurposing of maritime heritage into garden art, with the boat's curved bow creating a striking geometric contrast to the organic tangle of leaves above.
A vibrant ceramic jaguar sculpture with piercing blue eyes and meticulously painted spotted markings emerges from dense tropical foliage, its golden coat creating a striking contrast against the dark green vegetation. The piece captures the intense, watchful gaze of the big cat while nestled among palm fronds and jungle plants, blending artistry with the wild aesthetic of its natural habitat.
A dramatic silhouette of a statue of a person wearing a hat is cast against a white colonial wall, with a weathered church bell tower topped by crosses visible in the background. The composition creates a compelling layered narrative, juxtaposing the anonymous human shadow in the foreground with the enduring religious architecture that speaks to centuries of history.

Images of Pousada do Sandi

Our visit took place during the off-season. These photos might give the impression that Paraty is a sleepy place, but it’s a popular destination for cariocas who want to escape the city for a long weekend. The town holds numerous cultural events, including a major literary festival called F.L.I.P.. I’m glad we went when things were chill, I prefer the reduced crowds and having moments to slow down. More importantly, getting a dinner reservation isn’t as cutthroat.

A man crouches on cobblestones in a narrow street, framed by the bright yellow doorway in the foreground and colorful colonial buildings with blue geometric tiles visible in the background.
A striking black and white photograph captures a joyful woman in a light dress washing the weathered wooden door of her colonial home, her motion creating dynamic streaks of water against the dark wood. The composition is perfectly anchored by a small dog resting on the cobblestone street below, framing this intimate moment of everyday life against the geometric patterns of the building's contrasting facade.
A woman sits on a bicycle holding a small dog while pausing beside a weathered stone building with wooden doors on a cobblestone street. The black and white photograph captures the rustic colonial architecture with tropical vegetation visible in the background.
A man in a dark t-shirt stands in the doorway of a white colonial building with bright green window frames and doors, while a yellow bicycle leans against the wall nearby. The scene captures the colorful architecture and cobblestone streets typical of Brazil's historic coastal towns.
A young person sits cross-legged on cobblestones against a white colonial building, surrounded by books and art supplies, while a restaurant table with a beer bottle occupies the foreground. Ornate windows above reveal shelves of bottles inside what appears to be a traditional Brazilian establishment.
A man in a cap and light blue shirt stands near a green door with bright yellow trim, framed by an open window in the foreground. A brass plaque reading 'PERFIL DO BRASIL' hangs on the white wall beside the door, while other people are partially visible at the edges of the frame.
A person in a red shirt pushes a bicycle with a green plastic crate through a narrow arched doorway in a weathered stone wall completely covered with sprawling vines.
Three men stand on a wooden dock overlooking a harbor filled with colorful fishing boats, including a prominent yellow vessel in the foreground. Forested hills rise in the background under an overcast sky, while tall-masted sailing ships are anchored in the distance.
Handmade ceramic bowls fill the foreground while a woman sits on cobblestones in the background, selling artwork and crafts spread on blankets against green colonial shutters.

Tourists and locals

Walking in Paraty can be challenging. The cobblestones used for the streets and sidewalks are more like cobbleboulders. Definitely not the place to be wearing Havaianas. You need real shoes. During high tides, the streets also become flooded, turning into temporary channels. This is by design. When the water comes in, it takes any debris in the street with it on its way out. In the interim, you have streets filled with small pools and puddles. Where you have puddles, you have photographers.

Two photographers walk along a white colonial building with arched doorways, their reflections mirrored perfectly in a large puddle on the cobblestone street. The black and white image shows the long arcade-style architecture with lanterns hanging from the eaves.
A row of colorful colonial buildings with blue, orange, and green shutters reflects perfectly in floodwater covering the cobblestone street. The white façades with their ornate columns and varied window treatments create a mirror image in the still water below.
Colonial buildings with yellow-trimmed windows and blue shutters are reflected in puddles scattered across the uneven cobblestone street. The weathered stone surface creates a patchwork of water mirrors that fragment and multiply the architectural details above.
A flooded cobblestone street reflects colonial buildings with white walls and colorful blue and yellow window frames, creating perfect mirror images in the still water under an overcast sky.

High tides or after a rainfall are the perfect time to walk around and take pictures

It rains a lot in Paraty, or at least it did for us. Not all is lost, though. You see, Paraty is where they make a lot of the cachaça—the national spirit—in the state. There are several distilleries, or alambiques, that are just a short drive from the historic center. We visited Alambique Engenho D’Ouro for a tasting or two or three. There’s also a short hiking trail across the road that takes you to a waterfall. Which one you do first is up to you.

Rows of cachaça bottles with colorful labels line store shelves, displaying various Brazilian spirit flavors including caramelada, prata, grápia, and jequitiba with their prices clearly marked below each section.
Two cats rest on a weathered stone sidewalk in front of a colonial building with white walls and dark wooden shutters, one curled up near the corner while another lies further down the walkway.
A rocky stream flows through lush tropical rainforest with palm trees and ferns, where visitors sit on boulders near a suspension bridge spanning the water.
Three people enjoy drinks at a makeshift riverside bar setup with plastic chairs positioned among large moss-covered boulders, surrounded by dense tropical vegetation and a cascading waterfall in the background.
A black and tan dog rests on a wooden suspension bridge while a woman in a yellow top crosses behind it, surrounded by lush rainforest canopy with a Portuguese warning sign visible on the bridge railing.

Scenes from the alambique and nearby waterfall

No visit to Paraty is complete without getting on a boat for a few hours and touring the area. There are plenty of islands and tiny beaches that cannot be reached any other way. The weather was mostly cooperative for us as far as rain, but the gray skies did mute the water’s lovely colors that we at least got to see it when the clouds broke for a brief moment.

A fleet of colorful fishing boats and sailboats with tall masts are moored in calm harbor waters under an overcast sky, their reflections shimmering on the water's surface.
Passengers relax on the deck of a boat as one man holds up a black polka-dotted garment, with colorful harbor boats visible in the background and another person's arm partially visible in the foreground.
A bare, gnarled tree emerges from calm waters in the foreground while a lone sailboat anchors in the distance against misty, forested hills under an overcast sky.
A waterfront restaurant table set with plates and napkins looks out through flowing white curtains to boats anchored in calm waters, with forested hills rising in the misty background.
The town of Paraty and its colonial buildings in the distance with a large body of water in the foreground. The sky is overcast with low-hanging clouds and mountains in the distance.

Our day out on the water

This was such a quick trip for me, with so much time spent in transit. But it was a good one too. It was nice to be back in Brazil after not going for so many years and to see places that I hadn’t seen before. While I know I’ll be back to Rio and Fortaleza, I don’t know if I’ll be able to make it back to these smaller towns. Maybe I will. But in any case, I’m thankful that I get to take these trips and have these photos to remember them.